PARIS: Christian Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri threw the spotlight on moire fabric at the haute couture label’s spring summer show, using it to make short sleeved coats, belted trenchcoats and bustier dresses that shimmered down the runway on Monday.

The show didn’t start until Rihanna took her seat – the last celebrity to arrive, the singer turned up in a long, fitted skirt and towering heels, clutching a Lady Dior handbag and wearing a cap.

Models rounded the room in draped dresses, cape jackets and wide skirts. The color palette was muted, mostly beige, gray and black, which threw the eye to the shapes of the silhouettes, while fabrics like black velvet, silk and satin showed their luxurious nature.

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Adding a modern touch, some models wore open toed wedge heels, made of moire, fabric with lustrous rippling patterns.

“There’s shine, but not too much shine,” Chiuri told Reuters, of the fabric.

“It’s very flexible,” she said, adding she plans to use it in the future.

Held in a tent set up in the garden of the Rodin Museum, the show venue was decorated with huge, pressed garments – abstract renditions of clothing worn by Ottoman sultans – an art installation by artist Isabella Ducrot entitled ‘Big Aura.’

Outsize proportions evoke the charisma and power that clothes can relay, said Chiuri, also noting the precious nature of moire, which was worn by royals, and reflected light in an impressive way.

Fit is important, however, she cautioned.

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“You can have an impressive dress – but if it doesn’t fit on you, probably the result is not so magnificent.”

The Paris spring/summer haute couture shows run to Jan. 25, featuring big name labels including Chanel and LVMH-owned, opens new tab Fendi as well as Imane Ayissi, Rahul Mishra and Stephane Rolland.