KALAI-KHUMB, (Tajikistan): For Afghans living under Taliban rule, a Saturday market is a rare chance to cross the border into neighbouring Tajikistan and pick up food and household goods.

The popular bazaar in the small town of Kalai-Khumb — about six hours’ drive east from the Tajik capital Dushanbe — has reopened after being shut down after the Taliban retook control of Afghanistan in 2021.

Tajikistan, which shares a winding 1,350-kilometre (840 mile) border with Afghanistan, designates the Taliban a terrorist organisation.

But that didn’t stop white-bearded Afghan Subhanuddin Haji Qashem crossing to stock up on essentials last month.

“Here we can buy clothes, sweets and tea — even construction materials,” said Haji Qashem, who is in his 60s.

“We’re really happy the market has reopened.”

From wool rugs and saffron to washing powder and chickens, the market in a deep mountain gorge along the Pyandzh River sells almost everything.

The river’s turbulent brown waters mark the border between the two countries.

In Tajikistan’s eastern Gorno-Badakhshan region, Kalai-Khumb is surrounded by the peaks of the Pamir mountain range, soaring to over 4,000 metres (13,000 feet).

The Tajik flag — a red, white and green tricolour decorated with a crown and stars — was flying on the river’s northern bank.

Across a rusty bridge on the southern side fluttered a white Taliban flag with the Islamic profession of faith written in black.

Such points of cross-border trade are rare. There are fewer than 10 along the border selling vital goods and supporting the local economy in these isolated and impoverished areas.