Hippie, happy Kabul

During the 1962-75 period Kabul was one of the main outposts of the hippie movement. The other was Nepal (Kathmandu). This statement is not of the “Ripley’s Believe it or not”.

The largest depository of knowledge (before Google) “the US Library of Congress” has no documented evidence. If one were to google ‘Hippie Kabul’ it would come up with nothing. But it’s a fact.

The Hippy movement evolved in the Bay Area, around San Francisco. Haight Ashbury, etc. Joan Baez sang “Where have all the flowers gone”. The biggest hit of all was by Scott McKenzie “If you’re going to San Francisco, please wear flowers in your hair”. It was No.1 on the charts in America, UK & Europe.

The CIA sponsored Radio Liberty and Radio Free Europe was broadcasting this all over Eastern Europe. Even Nikita Khrushchev loved the song although he publicly denounced it as ‘Western decadence’. Across the pond, the action centered around the petticoat lane, London.

Mary Quant was introducing her fancy cosmetic range. Twiggy, Wafer thin, was a top model. The Beatles were revving it up in long-lost Liverpool. Across the channel in Paris, the two Francois ladies were riding the wave — Francois Sagan in novels and movies and Francois hardy with her soulful voice. Brigitte Bardot had already mesmerized the world in “And God created woman”.

In Lahore, the Mall was littered with outlets. “A go-go” or “Disco Dewane”. The hippie children are disillusioned by credit card culture, the Vietnam war, etc. taking to travel to rustic destinations. Tour countries would organize cross-continent trips via Europe, and Asia culminating in Nepal. Kabul was a favorite stopover — 3 or 4 days. The then Afghan government was very obliging. Local mid-class hotels were available. Some hippies slept in the various parks.

The government had installed toilets and washrooms. Everything was available. The law-and-order situation was so good that only an occasional incident was reported. After the stay, the coaches (usually two) would cross into Pakistan via Torkham.

Peshawar was only a brief lunch stop. The coaches would arrive at Faletti’s Hotel, Lahore, by early evening. For many guys in and around Lahore, this was the entertainment. One of my senior friends, a scion of a pharmaceutical fortune, was so well organized that he would receive messages as soon as the bus arrived in Lahore.

He was given a full inventory. The “hippies” usually carried a small amount of the ‘D’ stuff from Kabul. They would sell it in Lahore to finance their trips. Small stuff, not large enough to excite Escobar or chairman, Company ‘D’.

In the mid-1900s Peshawar was a quiet city, almost boring. The gates of the big house were usually open. The principal of Edward College, Dr Phil Edmonds, was a legend. From the Australian outback. He was the most influential man in the then NWFP. The administration of NWFP was run by some of his former students. As the captain of a college basketball team, I was once standing before Dr Edmonds in his office. A problem was being discussed.

He picked up the black phenolic telephone and called Nasrul Minallah, the deputy commissioner. Dr Edmond said “oh Nasrul, I want to discuss a major issue. Could you swing by tomorrow? “Yes, 11am is fine”. At around 11am the next day, I was loitering by the notice board outside, to observe. Sure enough, Minallah came and stayed for ½ hour.

Later Dr Edmond escorted him to the end of the veranda and waved him off. Dr Edmond was a legend. He never got angry. He handled everything with his sardonic sense of humour. His one-liner was famous, long before agent James Bond 007, came along.

After staying in Lahore for 3 or 4 days the coaches would depart for Delhi, the next stop. At the Wagah border, the usual “Faceoff of the Guards” was held. Kathmandu, Nepal, was the final destination. Many hippie children would stay on and on.

The hippies ‘pilgrimage’ started slowing down around 1975. It finally petered out in 1978. In Pakistan, Zulfikar Ali Bhutto had been out thrown. In 1979, the Shah of Iran left on a one-way trip in a personal piloted Boeing 707. The crowning glory — the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan.

Afterthought: A Russian invasion and the 43-year chain of events thereafter was a godsent for Pakistan — An economic Eldorado and a Geostrategic Gold mine. Pakistan held all the aces. But the hand was misplayed repeatedly. As they say in High Stake Bridge “only a dummy would lay all its cards on the table”. Perhaps Zia Mahmood (a Pakistan-American professional bridge player) can be called in to help.

Copyright Business Recorder, 2022