Mercury—an element long known for its toxicity—has earned a notorious spot on the World Health Organisation’s list of top ten chemicals of concern for public health. While it naturally exists in the environment, human activities like burning coal, industrial production, and artisanal gold mining have magnified its presence.
But surprisingly one of the lesser-known culprits contributing to this toxin is the cosmetics industry.
From anti-aging creams and eye makeup to skin-whitening lotions and nail polishes, mercury has found its way into a wide range of beauty products.
In Pakistan, the increasing cultural preference for fair skin has created a thriving market for skin whitening products, many of which contain dangerous concentrations of mercury. This widespread use is raising the alarm about mercury’s impact on both health and the environment.
Mercury is not only harmful when ingested or inhaled but also poses significant risks when absorbed through the skin. Prolonged exposure to mercury can lead to serious health issues such as kidney damage, skin scarring and discoloration (dermatitis) and even a compromised immune system.
Long-term use may result in Central Nervous System complications such as headache, insomnia and possible mood swings. Pregnant women exposed to mercury can end up having children with developmental delays and intellectual disabilities.
The Minamata Convention named after the city in Japan where mercury poisoning caused a major health crisis in the 1950s and 60s was adopted by the United Nations in 2013 and entered into force in 2017. As a signatory to the Convention (after ratification in 2020), Pakistan is legally bound to limit mercury emissions and prohibit its use in consumer products, including cosmetics.
Initially, the Convention prohibited the manufacture and trade of cosmetics with inorganic mercury content above 1ppm except eye area cosmetics where mercury is used as a preservative. But in 2023, there was an amendment in the mandate, banning the manufacture and trade of all cosmetics, even with traces of mercury (except eye area cosmetics).
Ministry of Climate Change and Environmental Coordination has been the custodian of Minamata Convention compliance in Pakistan ever since it came into force. Research conducted by MoCC&EC, in collaboration with SDPI, has focused on assessing the mercury content in skin whitening creams, the health risks they pose, and the regulatory frameworks needed to control them.
A 2018 study of 59 local and international products found that only three products adhered to the standard mercury limits (<1ppm), while the rest contained excessive mercury levels (0.74–44,292ppm). It was in response to this study, as well as the investigative report published by BBC in 2017, that the former Minister for Climate Change, Zartaj Gul made an official statement on the crackdown of such carcinogenic products in 2019, particularly exposing some notorious local brands.
The Minamata Initial Assessment Report of 2019 revealed that the share of cosmetics industry in mercury release into the air and water bodies was the highest among all categories of goods (55%). Pakistan was also found to be one of the leading manufacturers and exporters of mercury containing skin whitening creams (34% share) when the active international NGO, Zero Mercury Working Group, conducted surveys in Africa in 2022-23 on products purchased online.
It is clear from this evidence that despite international commitments and national efforts by the Government of Pakistan in successfully phasing out mercury in products such as compact fluorescent lamps and chlor-alkali industries, mercury-laced skin whitening products still remain widely available in Pakistani markets, with little enforcement of existing laws and regulations.
Manufacturers of mercury-based skin whitening creams continue to exploit loopholes in the regulatory system. Some produce creams in violation of local standards, while others import products from countries where mercury use in cosmetics is still legal or less regulated. These products are often sold in local beauty supply shops and street markets, making them accessible to millions of desperate consumers.
The rise of illegal online trade in non-FDA approved cosmetics has played a significant role in the spread of mercury-laden creams where many websites and social media pages advertise these products without proper scrutiny, reaching a vast audience without accountability. This unchecked market is a ticking time bomb, with consumers unknowingly exposing themselves to products with deceptive labeling regarding the true harmful ingredients.
Pakistan is in a need of strengthening the relevant institutes in the institutional framework in order to achieve three main objectives; advocacy, regulation and research.
Prominent names include Pakistan Standards and Quality Control Authority for strict market surveillance, product inspection, standardization and quality control of industrial practices and Pakistan Association of Dermatologists for mediation in policymaking and public health awareness about the harmful effects of mercury for the coming generations.
The most significant barrier to effective implementation lies not in the lawbooks or enforcement agencies but our societal mindset. In South Asia, fair skin is often associated with beauty, success, and higher social status. This deeply ingrained preference for lighter skin is amplified by social media and television, promoting colorism, which then fuels the demand for skin-whitening products.
Advertisements, often promoting these creams as miraculous solutions for achieving fairer and more acceptable skin tone, contribute to the never-ending demand. Changing the stereotypical mindset of our society through extensive awareness campaigns is the most integral step in this movement, an idea that will surely take many years to be fully inculcated in our society, but can definitely be mediated through creativity and persistence.
Only through a combination of multi-stakeholder involvement, regulatory action, public awareness, and cultural change can we hope to protect the health and well-being of millions.
Copyright Business Recorder, 2024
The writer is a research trainee at SDPI
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