Surviving the cultural diffusion

Knowing Karachi through the eyes of Mohammed Islam is a great experience. One must feel nostalgic with the thought of riding on a time machine, back to the lost glory of this metropolis. The man, in his mid-fifties narrates his life while analysing the traits of the Karachiities. Earlier, Islam tried his luck by selling fruit, then meat.
However, for the last 18 years he sells paya on the pavement of the Jubilee Chawk. A spicy and juicy curry, popular in the sub-continent paya is a traditional Mughal dish prepared from the leg bones and hoofs of goats or cows. Behind every successful man, there struggles a woman like Zahida, wife of Islam, who has learned the special cooking skill to the satisfaction of her husband's clientele.
This city is developing fast according to contemporary demands and better living standard but people in the old city, too, used to enjoy happy lives, says Islam as he relates the happy tale of the old city.
Talking about his long residency, Islam feels, that he may have been born in Jhang, Punjab, but he is a Karachiities by heart. He Migrated to this city of lights, for better prospects 30 years ago. The pavement vendor describes it as a fortune provider as people from all over Pakistan come here to settle down for respectable living.
The sole breadwinner in a family of six, Islam has four children aging 5-12.
Three of them are studying in schools but the eldest one helps him in business of selling "paya" curry on a kiosk placed on the pavement in front of the sweet shop "Shireen- Sohan" on Waheed Murad Road, Jubilee Chawk.
People of this metropolis still cannot ignore the temptation of a paya treat, said Islam adding that they are very fond of this dish and usually plan special occasions to throw a party for this reason. Paya lovers from across the city come to buy scoops of paya curry, as his recipe is famous for the unique taste.
"I have grown a passion for this place as I started my business sitting right here on the pavement of this road, formerly known as Marston Road," Islam unveils his emotional attachment for the place. He could easily recall the fact that cinema halls were the only means of recreation and the area used to dazzle with lights and the monotonous noise of tea stalls, snack bars, small restaurants and popcorn sellers. With the course of time, VCR and home theatres have uprooted the concept of cinema going that has led to a decline of this once lucrative business, forcing owners to close halls like Jubilee, Kohinoor, Erose, Rivoli, Kaiser and Godian.
The paya seller is happy to see Karachi fast moving towards development. "Developments can be healthy and prospective, if utilised properly", he claimed.
However, with this new trend in lifestyles, Islam has no fear of losing his business. "It is just a phase of transition, a traditions never die, just fade for a while only to return soon. The city has changed largely, but I am still selling paya for the last many years," commented the low scale businessperson."
Islam brings a giant pan of paya curry onto the kiosk everyday at 8:00 am and sells out the whole by 3:00 PM in the afternoon. He is able to earn at least Rs 500 everyday. This man practices a very strict disciplined life. Tired after a long day, he rests in the evening. Then the tired vendor shops ingredients for the recipe, and arranges the cooking materials as his wife cooks the dish with the destined time to get it done by 5 o'clock in the morning and then she sleeps. The busy entrepreneur informed us that his family wakes up very early in the morning as he along with his eldest son reach the kiosk with a full pan of paya curry, by 8:00 am. So rolls pat a busy day from the life of an energetic man, struggling hard to make his ends meet.
Karachi experienced many changes but Islam, popularly known as "payewala", has no alternate for a better life and still sells paya curry like he used to do, many years before.
One must feel sorry for the person struggling to survive, but the courageous pavement vendor has his own reasons to continue the business through which he earns to feed his four children and wife.
On another query Islam maintained that his children hardly get the opportunity to spend on anything for their comfort out of the meagre amount of Rs 500. He terms it insufficient as he is unable to save much after investing in the daily cost of preparing the next day's dish.
The payewala, a picture of contentment, smiles as he introduces his co-habitant on the roadside of famous Jubilee Chawk, Nawab Khan and Mohammed Salim, who selling Niswar and burger respectively on their fixed kiosks like him.
These low-scale entrepreneurs have no land of their own but dream of a solvent future, secured by a permanent and respectable workplace far away from their present unlawful temporary set-up. Yet they struggle together in peaceful co-existence, helping one another to survive the odds. Karachi as its moves forward has a fast growing eatery culture. There is an unfinished list of new culinary trends, like eating out at Smoking Gun with the exciting shots.
However, that glitter and enthusiasm can never substitute for the age-old and conventional paya culture popular, not only in Karachi, but across the sub-continent as well. At this juncture we believe, the city never sleeps in the evening with the enormous eating places, but it doesn't really starve during the day too. Therefore, to serve our appetite with a traditional mouth-watering recipe, we must not forget Mohammed Islam, one of the many multi-dimensional faces of Karachi.