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Pakistan’s cotton economy stands at a crossroads. Once a dominant force in textile exports, the sector now struggles to remain viable in an increasingly competitive global landscape. Structural inefficiencies, climate vulnerabilities, and policy inconsistencies have eroded productivity and profitability. The traditional volume-driven model—where Pakistan relies on mass production of lower-grade cotton for price-sensitive markets—can no longer sustain an industry that accounts for the bulk of the country’s export revenue. If Pakistan’s cotton-based textile sector is to survive and thrive, it must embrace a premium-oriented transformation, pivoting towards high-value, organic, and sustainably sourced cotton.

For decades, Pakistan’s textile industry has thrived on large orders of commoditized goods, where price is the only differentiator. From bath towels and bed linens to denim jeans, socks, and hosiery, the country has primarily catered to mass-market discount retailers like Walmart, Target, TJ Maxx, Next, and Bed Bath & Beyond. But that model is rapidly becoming unviable. The competitive landscape is shifting, and Pakistan’s reliance on low-margin, high-volume exports is now a sinking ship.

Pakistan’s textile exports are caught in a relentless price war, and the country is losing. Competitor nations—China, Bangladesh, Vietnam, and even Central American countries—offer cheaper production costs, faster turnaround times, and better infrastructure. Pakistan, by contrast, suffers from high energy tariffs, inefficient logistics, and security concerns that make it a less reliable supplier. Poor transport networks, long port clearance times, and foreign travel advisories further discourage large-scale orders. The industry is already struggling under these disadvantages, but an even bigger challenge looms on the horizon: the structural shift away from cotton itself.

The world’s textile sector is moving towards synthetic and man-made fibers (MMFs), which are cheaper, more versatile, and better suited to modern consumer needs. MMFs dominate activewear, swimwear, automotive upholstery, industrial fabrics, technical textiles like airbags and filtration systems, and even medical and hygiene products. Unlike cotton, which has historically been limited to suiting and bed linen, MMFs can be engineered for a vast range of applications, making them the natural choice for large-scale manufacturers. Cotton is no longer the primary driver of the global textile trade—it is a niche product.

Pakistan is uniquely disadvantaged in this transition. Unlike China and India, it has no indigenous industrial base for MMF production. The absence of a naphtha cracker complex and other critical upstream industries means Pakistan cannot produce synthetic fibers at scale. Worse, it has failed to build an integrated value chain that could process imported raw materials into high-value textile products. The result is an industry overwhelmingly dependent on cotton, despite cotton’s declining global relevance.

Even within the cotton segment, Pakistan’s competitiveness is eroding. The country’s cotton crop is short-staple, contaminated, and inconsistent in quality. Farmers struggle with rising input costs, outdated seed varieties, and climate shocks, leading to falling yields. The industry increasingly relies on imported cotton from Brazil and China—further reducing Pakistan’s competitiveness. Yet, even at discounted rates, Pakistani textiles struggle to retain market share.

And this discount-driven model is not sustainable. The biggest disruption to Pakistan’s textile exports is coming from regulatory shifts in Europe and other major markets. The EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, part of the broader European Green Deal, is transforming textile import requirements, pushing for carbon neutrality, circular production, and full traceability. For a cotton-dominant exporter like Pakistan, this means proving compliance at every stage of the supply chain—from farm labor practices to pesticide use, water consumption, and carbon footprint. Given that Pakistan’s cotton production is dominated by smallholder farmers with limited capacity to meet such standards, compliance will be an uphill battle. And even if achieved, it will raise production costs, making low-margin cotton textiles even less viable.

By contrast, MMFs are already better aligned with sustainability goals. They require less water, generate fewer emissions, and fit easily into circular production models. As regulatory pressures mount, global buyers will find it easier to transition towards MMF-based textiles. Pakistan, trapped in a cotton-centric value chain, will find itself increasingly excluded from key markets.

The future of global textiles is clear: high-volume production will be dominated by MMFs, while cotton will retreat into a niche—but premium—segment. Labels like “organic,” “sustainably sourced,” and “farm-to-factory traceability” will define the cotton market. Brands and retailers will pay a premium for verified sustainability. The days of mass-market, low-cost cotton textiles are over.

Pakistan must adapt. Instead of lamenting falling cotton production and relying on imported fiber, the industry must pivot towards premium, sustainably certified cotton. The country cannot compete with Brazil, China, or the U.S. on cost, scale, or technology. But it can carve out a space in the premium cotton market. This requires urgent reforms at multiple levels:

First, cotton farming practices must change. Investment in better seed technology, pest-resistant varieties, and climate-adaptive farming is critical. Transitioning to organic and regenerative agriculture requires financial incentives and extension support.

Second, certification and traceability are non-negotiable. To compete in premium markets, Pakistan must meet global standards such as the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), and OEKO-TEX. Blockchain-based supply chain tracking can provide verifiable proof of sustainability, strengthening buyer confidence.

Third, policy realignment is essential. Government subsidies should shift away from sugarcane and wheat dominance towards sustainable cotton production. Trade policies should incentivize the export of premium-grade cotton textiles rather than bulk, low-value commodities.

Fourth, Pakistan must invest in branding and market positioning. Countries like India have successfully positioned themselves as suppliers of organic and fair-trade cotton. Pakistan, with its deep textile expertise, must do the same. Trade bodies and industry associations should engage directly with global fashion brands to market Pakistan as a sustainable, high-quality supplier.

Fifth, the processing infrastructure must be upgraded. Contaminated and poorly ginned cotton reduces competitiveness. Investment in modern ginning technology and best practices in post-harvest handling will ensure higher-quality output that can command premium prices.

The transition to premium cotton will not be easy. Even if the industry begins today, it will take a decade to establish Pakistan as a serious player in sustainable cotton. The challenges are significant—chemical use, soil degradation, water stress, and labor conditions—but the alternative is irrelevance.

The global demand for cotton peaked 17 years ago in 2008 and has been in secular decline ever since. There is no point in trying to revive Pakistan’s old, volume-driven cotton economy. Cotton prices are at historic lows, yet MMFs remain cost-competitive. Farmers have little incentive to grow a vulnerable, labor-intensive crop with weak returns. The world has moved on.

Pakistan’s textile industry must recognize this reality. The low-value, high-volume cotton business is over. It may take over a decade to transition, but the work must begin now. The future is not in producing more, but in producing better. Premium is not just an opportunity—it is the only way forward.

Comments

200 characters
KU Feb 18, 2025 09:33am
We have read much on what's wrong with our textile sector, a simple solution could be benchmarking with successful countries. Worry there is also on demise of food production as it faces similar fate.
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hamza khan Feb 18, 2025 09:53am
well said, and well written. 100% agreed. is anyone listening??
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