Pakistani fashion since independence

The culture of a country has profound impact on the social values and lifestyle of its citizens. Fashion divas have unanimously agreed that Fashion and culture goes hand in hand. People try to stay "in fashion" and they are mostly influenced by popular culture, which is a reflection of cultural forces as well as political factors.
In Pakistan, fashion never was an isolated factor of merely clothing or dressing up, but it has been connected with the changing political and social values of the country.
Right from the post-independence till present day, the changing trends has been shaped by political and social changes in our society and inspired especially Pakistani women with some amazing styles.
Post-independence era
Pre-independence trend of gharara suit continued to shine during the period from 1947s to 1960s. The credit of that popularity went to the leading women of Pakistan Movement Begum Raana Liaquat Ali Khan and Mohtarma Fatima Jinnah. Both women were role model of Muslim women of newly built nation. It was a matter of proud to follow their dress code.
The gharara suit originated from Awadh region of Uttar Perdesh during the later period of 19th century and early phase of 20th century. It was a royal dress of wives of nawabs of that era. They used to wear this attire, to show off nobility, and class.
The traditional gharara suit consists of a kurti (a short, mid-thigh length tunic), a dupatta (veil), and most importantly, a pair of wide-legged pants, ruched at the knee. The knee area, is often beautifully embroidered in zari and zardozi work. Each leg of a traditional gharara is made from over 12 meters of fabric, often-silk brocade.
Soon after independence Aligarh, pajamas and Lucknow style got obsolete and replaced by saris, which became necessary outfit for every educated woman's wardrobe. Actually, the women who migrated from places like UP, Bihar, Hyderabad to Karachi etc. wear sari on daily bases. For the rest of Pakistan, it was a novel, exotic, and trendy style. Sari was also a traditional dress of women of then Mashraqi Pakistan.
The unique style of sari fascinated the local female population and they happily accept it as a trend. The traditional sari was made up of a piece of fabric usually 6-9 yards, wrapped around the waist and draped over one shoulder and a blouse. Often one arm is covered on the side the sari is draped over the shoulder. A petticoat is usually worn beneath the sari. Celebrities like Noor Jehan, Shameem Ara were the style icons of that time.
The era of 60s
Along with the green revolution and industrial development, this era brought a prominent change in Pakistani dressing style. It was the period of experimentation. Influenced by the London's mod culture and hippie culture in America, designers introduced many new styles such as peddle pushers (calf-length trousers), bell-bottom, printed leggings, culottes, hip tight pants, and flappers with tight short kameez. The 1960s also saw the hem of the kameezes went shorter.
The traditional sari turned into sensuously beautiful attire by new innovative styles such as batik work (lower part remains simple), border, mirrors, and zari work on sides of sari and blouses. Jackets made with crochet and laces were introduced to enhance the beauty of the saris.
The era of 70
The events of war, defeat, separation, and new promises widely changed the public moods as wells the fashion mood. Provincial culture dominated the fashion scene. Intricate hand embroidery, patchwork, shadow work, mirror work catcthed made their way in local markets. While, knee top kameez with ghairdar shalwar become order of the day. The 70s were the decade to wear wild prints and mix up bright colours. Disco, glitter and glamour, marked the 70s trends. In the 1970s the maxi dress become a women's wardrobe essential. Maxi adorned with polka dots, patchwork, heavy embroidery, or bold prints got immense popularity.
The 80s era
Politics have deep impact on dress code in Pakistan. The '80s also witnessed revolutionary changes in Pakistan's dress code - politically. During the Zia regime, women were highly encouraged to wear religious clothing, which aimed to cover all their body parts except face and hands when going outside from their home. Most women covered their heads with Dupatta or Chadar when outside, but religious women preferred to wear a Scarf, Burqa or Hijab with long full sleeve shirts. Long dupattas of around 2.5 metres became the norm.
80s is considered as the golden era for fashion industry. It was the era inspired by 70's and mostly consisted of shalwar kameez, dhoti pants, Turkish, and Patiala kind of shalwars. Nazia Hassan appeared as a fashion icon of 80s.
The most common things that were in fashion in 1980s were shoulder pads that were used to create a straight and wider look for the shoulders. Women used them in offices, formal ceremonies, and weddings to make their shoulders look prominent and broad.
Era of 90s
This period saw a storm of all kinds of influences especially bollywood movies, TV dramas and commercials. When people experimenting with fashion came up with some amazing, and not so amazing things that can be worn even today. Shiffon saris were back but confined to evening parties. Simplicity and elegance was exactly oozed out of a salwar kameez.
A new trend of floral, net, geometrical, zari printed, dyed and chunri duppatas got popularity with the introduction of three-piece shalwar suits. It is right to say that 90s was the 'dupatta' in focus, period. The size of duppatta stretched to around 3.5 to four meters with shalwar suits. The highly intricate multi-coloured embroidery done on either khadi or georgette fabrics were popular everywhere. From street styles to big designer labels, all have suddenly picked up that style. The best part about those dupattas was that it could be worn with simple shalwar suits.
Banarsi dupattas along with banarsi saris offered variety of colours and patterns. Skilled artisans who migrated from India filled the local markets with exotic and eye catching banarsi suits and matching banarsi duppattas.
The 2000 era
The new millennium 2000 saw a flood of designs but the main changes came in women trousers styles. Pegi, trousers, palazzos, wide leg jeans/ trousers, cigarette pants, capris, tulip trousers, tights and churidar pajamas. The time also saw changes in shirt styles but it is mostly inspired by western culture, the period consists of long kurtas, short kurtas, shrugs, and cardigans etc.
Fariha Altaf, a well-recognized name in fashion industry of Pakistan mentioned, "In the early 2000s, there were very few checks and balances. This was the time when fashion truly mushroomed from a cottage industry to a fully-fledged business employing thousands and bringing in profits."
Fashion in 2000 was all about comfortable and stylish outfits. Women preferred comfortable dressing so they can be relaxed at any time. The trend of buying suits has been increased during the 2000 era. At the turn of every season, clothing brands and designers are introducing new volumes of cotton and lawn suit collections. These collections still have a large following in domestic and international markets due to their quality fabric, unique designs, and great influence in the trends.
The fashion trends 2010 had prominently supported the 80s look of flare shirt while fashion 2011 brought back the elegance and mode of 1970s look. Old fashion boat shaped neck shirts revived this year. Necks, which are less in depth but more in width, are called boat-shaped and it looks graceful and stylish.
Anarkali umbrella frock dress got popularity this year. The frock usually worn with skin tight "churdar pajama" Usually bright colours were used for Anarkali umbrella frock and it was fitted from waist and hips while the bottom was flared like an umbrella.
Culture of frocks has never out of Pakistani fashion but during the year, 2015 designers modified the tradition with unique style and adorable designs. The Frock designs of 2016 embellished with thread work, embroidery work, till work, gota work, zari, and dabka got popularity among women of all classes. Fabrics in demand for frock stitching are georgette, silk, chiffon, and cotton.
Trends 2018
This year medium size shirts are gradually taking over the short size shirts. Cigarette pants are now ready to comeback. Currently the trend is undoubtedly the skinny jeans, which is closely followed by leggings and footless tights. While, ethical and traditional attires are equally popular. A variety of lowers including gharara pants, Dhaka shalwars and voluminous Pindi shalwars, have already enjoyed public acceptance. With the passage of time, Pakistani women have adopted new styles some of which are the combination of Pakistani and Western clothing.